Bra Fitting Guide

This guide covers what a well-fitting bra should look like, troubleshooting common fit problems, and how to find your new bra size using your existing bra.

If you’re completely at the beginning of your bra fit journey, our guide to how to measure bra size will give you guidance, using a tape measure as a starting point.

Points to remember

1. Different brands will all fit you slightly differently, so you can be more than one bra size depending on which brand you’re wearing.

2. Your size will fluctuate over time, and can also vary throughout the month depending on your menstrual cycle, if you have one.

3. Our fitting tips can help with finding a size that can feel great on you, but if it doesn’t feel good for you to wear? That’s not the right size for you, and it’s perfectly okay to try another until you find something that makes you feel your best self, whether that “breaks the rules” or not!


  • Bra band that is too large and not fitting well
  • Bra back band correctly fitting in straight line
  • The band of the bra should fit comfortably around your body in a horizontal line, fastened on either the loosest or middle set of hook and eyes.

    Some customers find that fitting on the loosest hook is best for them, so they are able to tighten it over time as the band loosens with wear.

    Others prefer to fit to the middle hook, to vary the fit according to fluctuations in size.

Band fit issues

If you find the band is riding up at the back, this is usually a sign it is too large, so you may want to try a smaller back size. 

If the cup is fitting well however, this will change your cup size - you will need to go up one cup size whilst going down one band size. For example, if your 34E is too loose in the band but perfect in the cup, try a 32F instead. 

The reverse is true if your band is too tight - you'll need to go up one band size and down one cup size, for example 36E to 38DD.

Our guide to bra sister sizes explains this concept in more detail. You can also use the chart there to help you work out which size you’ll need to change to.

You can also use the quick fit guide at the bottom of this post for an instant answer.

Correctly fitting bra showing best fit for DD+ cup sizes

Cup size

The cup should fully contain your breast, without spilling over at the top, or having loose gaping fabric. It is natural to have one breast slightly larger than the other, so if this is the case try to ensure the best fit to the largest side.

You can also try adjusting the back elastic strap to make the smaller side slightly tighter, if it is visibly different.

  • Bra cup fitting too big

    Cup wrinkling or gaping?

    First, try adjusting the back elastic straps to see if that helps adjust the fit. If not, try a smaller cup size.

  • Bra cup fitting too small

    Cup spilling over at the top?

    Try a larger cup size. The cup should fully contain your breast, and make a smooth line at the top.

  • Bra underwire fitting correctly at front
  • Checking fit of bra cup to find best fit
  • The wires of the cup should lie flat against your chest at the centre front, and contain all of your breast tissue within them at the side. If you find the wires are digging in to the side of your breasts, or not lying against your ribcage, see if a larger cup size will work better for you.


If you find your straps are digging in, it can sometimes mean the band is too loose so support is being forced to come from the straps, so do check the band is fitting horizontally around your body.  

If the cup is wrinkling a little, it can sometimes just be a matter of tightening up the adjustable elastic straps at the back to pull the cups up higher, so be sure to check you’ve adjusted the straps before trying another cup size.

Adjusting back strap of bra to improve fit

All of our bras have gold rings at the back to allow rotation according to the width of your shoulders, and many also have them at the front for even more adjustability. Several of our bras have wide, flared silk straps to maintain the comfort of a wider strap with a more stylish look.


Lengthening or shortening the back elastics can also help with getting the fit just right for your body. We can also make custom alterations on the length of the back strap elastics in our studio for you if required, so do let us know if you’re finding you need a bit more or a bit less than the standard length allows.

  • If you’ve been accustomed to shopping with brands making the majority of their sizes in A-DD cups, and your size is at the top end of theirs (for example if you’re a 34DD or 36DD, or sometimes 34E or 36E) you might be used to bra sizing with the “+4” method.


    This takes the measurement of around your ribcage, where your bra band sits, and adds four inches to it. Brands specialising in sizes above a DD cup like ourselves tend to not use this method, but instead will take your underband measurement to be the same as your underband size. For example, a measurement of 30 inches will be a 30 size band.


    If you're not sure if this applies to you, our DD cup sizes guide covers this in more detail. You can also drop us a note if you’d like to check out any sizing queries with us, we’re always happy to help.

Quick Bra Size Fix Guide

Band too large, cup fitting well

Go down one band size, up one cup letter - eg 34E to 32F

Band too large, cup too small

Go down one band size, up two cup letters - eg 34E to 32FF

Band too large, cup too large

Go down one band size, keep cup letter the same - eg 34E to 32E

Collapsible content

Band too small, cup fitting well

Go up one band size, down one cup letter - eg 32F to 34E

Band too small, cup too small

Go up one band size, keep the cup letter the same - eg 32F to 34F

Band too small, cup too large

Go up one band size, down two cup letters - eg 32F to 34DD

Collapsible content

Band fitting well, cup too small

Keep band the same, go up one cup letter - eg 34E to 34F

Band fitting well, cup too large

Keep band the same, go down one cup letter - eg 34E to 34DD

Luxury bra in black and gold embroidery in DD+ cup size

Ready to choose your perfect bra?

Now you know the right size for you, it’s time to find your dream bra. We specialise in 30 – 38 band and DD– G cup bra sizes, always created from the very finest materials to make you feel the most special version of yourself. 

We can also make any of our styles in a selection of additional sizes, including D cups, GG cups and 40 bands, just enquire about our bespoke services.

Our sizes are always listed in UK sizing, so please use our international size chart to compare and make sure you get the size just right.

Shop all of our collections to discover a whole world of beautifully luxurious lingerie, designed especially for your size, in the finest silks, laces and bespoke embroideries.


Please do check with us if you have any questions at all, we’re passionate about helping you find the perfect bra to feel your most exquisite self, and we can’t wait for you to be enjoying wearing it!

We also offer complimentary worldwide returns and exchanges, with the option of a courier collection for our mailing list members, so if for any reason the size isn’t quite right for you, it’s hassle free to either return or to switch for the perfect one, no matter where you are in the world.